Chilaquiles

When it comes to traditional foods, regional and personal variations can be a rhetorical minefield. What constitutes “authentic” or “proper,” and whether that matters, is an all-too-familiar refrain. Go to Emiglia-Romagna and try to get a pair of neighbors to agree on what constitutes a traditional Ragù alla Bolognese. It’s both rare and somewhat refreshing …

Pollo en Chiltepín con Cacahuate

Mexico, not to overstate the obvious, is a big country, one possessed of a rich and diverse culinary history to match its size. As such, when you’re accustomed to the Sonoran-influenced Arizona Mex that dominates in Phoenix, a Pueblan dish — like the Pollo en Chiltepín con Cacahuate at Restaurant Huauchinango — can be a striking and delicious …